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I've been using Deoxit lately on an amplifier restoration, and I'm not sure it's actually making things better... I mean, it seems to clean and lube really well in the moment, but then when I come back to the project later I seem to need to do it all over again. I know cleaning out corrosion...

I'm going to start a different thread in a more appropriate place.

It means for every character typed on the terminal, the character is doubled in getty (e.g. if I type 'hello' into kermit on the Toshiba, 'hheelloo' appears in the Terminal window on the Mac). Will do - thanks.

This is timely! I've been poking at this for a couple weekends using screen/getty now, and can log in and use unix commands on my Mac via a variety of machines (none of them actual terminals; an Apple IIc using ProTerm, and a Toshiba T1100 Plus using Kermit 3.16), but I've got consistent issues...

Apologies - when you say 'language card', you mean the Z80 card, not a RAM/Integer BASIC card? As far as I can gather, Z80 cards need to be installed in a specific slot (usually slot 7), not slot 0. Only the RAM card or BASIC ROM card can go in slot 0.

Ah! My apologies for the misunderstanding - yeah, I don't think you're going to find those green connectors anywhere, they're very rare (and worth preserving if possible). Pin 41 of Slot 0 should have continuity with pin 15 of the LS138 at H2 - or there might be a chance that IC is bad. I'm...

Do pins in slot 0 have continuity with those in slot 1? I'm thinking especially about +5v (pin 26), GND (pin 26) and device select (pin 41) - note pin 1 (I/O select) is not connected. You were noting in the first post it's looking a little green, so bad connections could be at issue. I assume...

The typical culprits are the joints for the flyback, J1, J2 and J4

This is very cool - thank so so much for digging this up. I did already have the 2.1 boot floppy, so this fired right up no issues. Neat animated intro with music, went through the slideshows, played the game, all very cool. Thanks again!!

I've been wanting to bring my Toshiba T1100 Plus to our local monthly vintage computer club meet-up, but I'm struggling to think of software that would make for a more broadly interesting showcase... The machine is interesting to me for what it is, and I like using it for silly little things...

How did you discover the issue?

Welcome! Those framed boards look gorgeous - excellent matting!

Since it came up, I have a bunch of extra 34 pin to 50 pin adapter PCB's up for grabs for those who want to solder. Just the PCB's, I don't have the components handy (easy enough to get).

I think then that @GiGaBiTe was onto it, that something on the logic board is shorted or grounded. I would check for shorts between pins on J7, noting that pins 7 and 9 are ground:

The flupping could be for a lot of reasons, perhaps multiple coincidental reasons, so it's going to be difficult to provide advice. It could be the voltage adjusted too high for some reason and it's crowbarring and needs to be adjusted down. It could be bad capacitors. Or it could be a blown...

You can find the Skiwriter ROM among the download further down this page: https://www.pjspot.com/hx-20/programs/

Sounds like crowbarring but hard to know for sure. You could check the mosfets in the PSU to see if they're good? Q2 and Q3 in the Astec supply.

Here's a pretty thorough refurb tutorial for the switches and springs: https://tinkerdifferent.com/threads/fixing-stiff-apple-iic-keyboard-switches.1212/

+1 to @Timo W. 's comment - the rubber mat was only there for switch protection and I've yet to see one age gracefully - it can be removed. The springs on the switches *can* be tweaked and lubricated to help with tactility, which I personally prefer - I've got one IIc here with that keyboard and...

I've done this (mostly because my wife made me for these very reasons - she was quite frank about it lol). Remember to take pictures with identifying marks (serial #'s in particular).