• Please review our updated Terms and Rules here

Molybdenum Disufide lubricant.

syzygy

syzygy

Experienced Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2023
Messages
396
Location
North East USA
From time-to-time a question/issue comes up about lubricating components of floppy drives. Also, there are plenty of Tube vids on the subject, e.g.,

I am wondering about MoS2 lubricants. I read about superior temperature stability, resistance to water, long lasting, great for high pressure and a bunch of stuff that I don't completely understand. One compelling idea is that a "dry" lubricant that will not collect dust. But some of the moly products are actually MoS2 mixed with lithium grease (e.g., this stuff) - and in the past, I have used a small amount of lithium grease on the rails of a floppy. So, I would expect the lithium grease would collect dust. Also, how is a dry spray powder (this stuff) or just the dry powder (this stuff) going to stick?

Am I just over-thinking this?
 
MnS₂ is really messy stuff (still have a one-pound container of the pure powder--you though graphite was bad...). Personally, I'd use a light silicone oil, rather than a suspension of solids in an petroleum oil carrier.

In particular, white lithium grease is just a lithium soap (Lithium_12-hydroxystearate) mixed with a petroleum grease. Problem is that, as it ages, it gets increasingly "gunky" and eventually turns into an impediment.

I've cleaned that white stuff off of floppy positioner worms on brand-new drives that refused to work.

Silicone (polydimethylsiloxane) oil, on the other hand, just evaporates with time, leaving almost nothing behind. Even if you opt for silicone grease, it's mostly silicone oil mixed with fumed silica as a thickener.
 
Chuck(G) said:
In particular, white lithium grease is just a lithium soap (Lithium_12-hydroxystearate) mixed with a petroleum grease. Problem is that, as it ages, it gets increasingly "gunky" and eventually turns into an impediment.

I've cleaned that white stuff off of floppy positioner worms on brand-new drives that refused to work.
Click to expand...
I used to think well of white lithium grease, but after having similar experiences I've decided to stick to using it only with automotive applications. I have tried using silicone grease instead in some applications, so far successfully. Haven't tried silicone oil ... yet, but sounds like a good idea.
 
For worm drives I use super lube synthetic grease with PTFE.

Super Lube Synthetic Grease 3 oz - Ace Hardware

Super Lube Grease is a patented synthetic NLGI grade 2 heavy-duty, multipurpose lubricant with Syncolon (PTFE). Synthetic base fluids and the addition of Syncolon (PTFE) micro powders combine to form a premium lubricant that provides longer life protection against friction, wear, rust and...
www.acehardware.com www.acehardware.com

1708422794350.jpeg

Slides I still use what was used, a good lithium grease. Some brands dry out faster then others. I have 5.25 drives, and 3.5 as well, being lubed over 10 years ago still working great. As far as collecting dust, I will agree isn't the best for that approach. But machines kept in a non smoking climate controlled environment, I see no issues. In my opinion, still better then was on there new...
 

Attachments

  • 1708422778065.jpeg
    1708422778065.jpeg
    4.5 KB · Views: 1
Last edited:
A bit of nose Sebum goes a long way if you need to lubricate something in the field :)

Rosy printers or LA12/36's for example
 
Gary C said:
A bit of nose Sebum goes a long way if you need to lubricate something in the field :)

Rosy printers or LA12/36's for example
Click to expand...
The only problem with that is that sebum secretion decreases with age, and we are not getting any younger are we ?

Recently we had a stay in a rented apartment and the sliding door to the balcony I think had never been lubricated. It was in a coastal area and was simply tearing up shards of aluminium on the running tracks. My wife was unable to slide the door open & I struggled with it. I hunted around, and in desperation found some Olive oil in the kitchen that worked well enough for our stay there.

A particularly good type of Lithium grease is Lubriplate, AERO:

www.ebay.com

Lubriplate AERO 1.75 oz. Multi-Purpose Low Temp Grease (3 PACK) | eBay

Lubriplate AERO 1.75 oz. Genuine Lubriplate Aero LBR-S Specialty low temp grease. For screw drive and chain drive garage door openers. Quantity: (3) 1.75 oz Tubes.
www.ebay.com
 
I've used Dri-Slide, a Motorcycle Cable Lubricant for Decades on Tandon TM-100 Floppy
Drive Head Guide Rails and Scanner Rails. Works great, comes it a long needle for easy
dispensing, and is available at most Motorcycle Shops.

Larry
 
Molybdenum grease is great. It is also really bad.
Once a few year back I need to do a quick front wheel bearing grease. I new I should clean it first but I was in a hurry. I'll get to it later when I had the time.
In less than a month the bear was shot. I found that mixing Moly grease with the original bearing grease was what did the damage.
I replaced the bearing and used only the same Moly grease, (what I had). I drove the car for several years and never had any issue.
Point is, make sure you are not mixing incompatible greases. You might end up with less than you started with.
If you not sure if you can mix, clean and start fresh.
Dwight
 
I have a grease gun filled with moly grease--I use it for very specialized applications, such as the head gear on my weed whacker. It works there, but I'd avoid using it on any electronics application--it's really messy.
 
I found a barely used tube of "Molyslip multi purpose grease" in a thrift store few years ago (looks like it's from the 70s). I've been using it on metal-on-metal friction spots, applied with a toothpick in small quantities. It works well. I could probably grease hundreds of drives with it, but if there's plastics to lubricate I also have a tube of generic silicone grease.
 
I have been reading the thread and appreciate all of the stories and recommendations....and wanted to add to it, again.

I grew up as part of a 3-in-one oil / WD40 generation. These were the products that everybody had and used.

I have soured on WD40 - it just does not last in my experience. I was cleaning some bathroom fans that had become very noisy. When finished, I used WD40. All was well for about 3-4 months and then they started getting noisy again....and I did a brief cleaning and used WD40 again...and they are quiet again. That experience and this thread is how I decided that I need to learn more about lubricants. After spending a lot of time reading, I am now understanding that there are, indeed, better lubricants for particular situations, but still, it is not easy to make the determination. Thus, all of the personal experiences are important, so thank you.

First off, I have learned that many popular brand names may have started out as a single product but have branched out into dozens of products so that many additives that get a buzz are added - take a look at all the 'varieties' of WD40 here. This appears to be a universal marketing strategy that has two levels; 1) target a specific use, ostensibly for the less sophisticated user and 2) target a particular additive, ostensibly for the more sophisticated user.

But, there are always caveats For example, the Molykote EM-30L, that was used in the video, does not contain any MoS2 at least based on the SDS here. It appears to be a lithium grease with an additive....with a usable life (unopened) of 36 months from date of manufacture [from here], that does not address how long it works in the application. It looked like a winner at first - the vid said something similar was used in the apple drives and it is especially good for plastic/plastic gears and so on. I took it out of my amazon list.

I am shying away from the white lithium grease in general because of its limited longevity, which was mentioned, and the mess it leaves when it dries out. I am convinced, with more speculation than facts, that this was the stuff I was cleaning out of old atari paddle pots.

I found that I had some laboratory-grade silicon grease and that went into the collection.

I bought some superlube with ptfe.

I bought some B'laster silicon spray with an additive (but not teflon, like the DOW product). This is going to be used on the bathroom fans AFTER I clean the WD40 out. Depending on what I learn, i might use this on the rails of a floppy drive (spraying on an applicator first).

I bought some MoS2 (not MoS4 as originally mistakenly written) to play with. These have 1-2 micron particles. I absolutely believe that the stuff is a mess to work with. Still, I couldn't resist (must be the 10 year old Gilbert chemistry set effect).

The basic DriSlide general use product does have MoS2 and it *seems" like the prep is designed to spread the particles on evenly and then evaporate leaving the MoS4 "clinging" to the material - see here. I like this idea and that @ldkraemer has used it for decades adds to the appeal. I have some in my list.
 
Last edited:
syzygy said:
MoS4
Click to expand...
I know that MoS₄ exists as an ion: (Disulfido(dithioxo)molybdenum), but don't you really mean MoS₂?

Another technique is to bake or sputter MoS₂ onto a surface. https://surfengtech.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/05/Molybdenum-DiSulphide2.pdf
Generally, I tend to think of moly coating for high-load applications (automotive would be a good example), but not for something light-duty as a floppy drive. Remember that since moly disulfide consists of particles, you run the risk of contaminating media or heads. I wouldn't use it in your application.
 
Last edited:
Chuck(G) said:
I know that MoS₄ exists as an ion: (Disulfido(dithioxo)molybdenum), but don't you really mean MoS₂?
Click to expand...
Yes, I do - probably in the same way as I meant Disulfide not Disufide in the title. I don't mind you pointing it out and I have corrected it, but, of course, I have to add:
when you wrote MnS₂, did you really mean Manganese (II) sulfide or Manganese (IV) sulfide or something else?:)

My brain works far faster than my fingers (neither works all that great) and I am plagued by being too lazy to have to proof read BEFORE clicking send - instead, I read it later and say wtf? and, if not too late, correct it - typo/grammar/general stupidity and so on. Fortunately, for very important documents I learned to write and proof after a longer time, sleep on it, proof again and then click "send".
 
Last edited:
Chuck(G) said:
Okay, point taken--sometimes my brain and fingers don't coordinate either. :( I'm still opposed to using any particulate-containing lubricant in devices involving media contact. There are plenty of good alternatives that don't involve particles or soaps.
Click to expand...

Ok, I respect your opinion on the matter and I think you had mentioned as much earlier. Still, I don't understand why you feel that way but I get that you said there are plenty of alternatives. Yes, at this point I am overthinking it, but all I can see as a downside is what happens to these particles when the "carrier" is gone? Do they simply no longer stick to the rails, in the example context I am thinking about? Or does the adherence last for an extraordinary amount of time such that it is not really an issue? I don't know what the answer is there and have not yet seen it directly addressed. Maybe, just to indulge myself further, I will ask on stackexchange.

Edited to add because I just noticed it in one of your responses, I would not use the MoS2 that I bought by straight sprinkling, but rather mixing it with something else first. I saw this done on the tube. This is the product and it came with no instruction at all but a bunch of warnings, which I read and take very seriously. If I do end up using MoS2 on the rails, I wouldn't use this, instead I would get some drislide because it is so much easier.
 
Last edited:
Perhaps the better question to ask "Is there any need for lubrication at all?" In the case of carriage sliders, if the sliding surfaces are delrin/nylon against polished/plated metal, you're probably best off just keeping things clean, lest you apply something that dirt can adhere to and damage the sliding surfaces.
 
Have to agree with the just clean option, and that is certainly the method Teac's service manual specifies for their drives.
If there are brass sleeves involved, cleaning and then soaking in light oil is the usual treatment.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top