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My Commodore PET 2001N Reset Switch Mod

Holmes

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Dec 13, 2010
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So I was able to put my RESET button mod together for my PET 2001N. I was anxious to do this mod soon, because when I get my PETdisk, I'll probably be testing tons of programs, and didn't want to have to turn my machine off and on over and over again, subjecting it to repeated power surges.

So I went looking for plans for a RESET switch mod, and didn't find much, so I thought I'd post my solution to this.

I found some plans for a RESET switch in my "PET Personal Computer Guide" by Osborne/Strasma/Strasma. It's a pretty complicated plan they have, so I took out what I wanted. Their plan is basically to wire up a momentary switch, where pressing it one way resets the computer, pressing it the other way activates the NMI (Non-Mask Interrupt) line, which basically sends you straight to the BASIC prompt, but keeps your memory contents intact. They also include plans for a switch to ground the Diagnostic Sense line, which will send the PET into the machine-language monitor on restart (confirmed by dave-m).

At this point, I don't really need the NMI functionality, nor do I need to machine language monitor, so I decided to just do the RESET switch part.

To activate a RESET on a PET, you need to ground PIN 22 on jumper block J4, through a 100-ohm resistor. Pin 22 on J4 is on the left side of the block, and all pins on the right side of J4 are ground pins, so this can be accomplished with a simple 2-position female header connected to a resistor and momentary pushbutton.

With this basic design in hand, I looked at the casing to try to figure out where to put this switch. I didn't want to modify the case at all, so it would have to be accessible from the outside, but I also wanted it fairly hidden. I found the nice wide space on the right side of the lower case, where the memory expansion opening is. I worked it out that I could fit a small button there, and it would be nice and recessed.

So I cut off a 6x2 pin female header block from some old salvaged computer parts, and wired up a 100-ohm resistor, connected to a pushbutton switch, and glued the switch to the side of the header block. You only need to use 2 of the pins, but I figured the larger female header would give more stability. The result was as follows:

DSC06330 (Medium).jpg
DSC06329 (Medium).jpg
DSC06333 (Medium).jpg <-- Notice the button is staggered a bit low, so that it's more accessible from the memory expansion opening. If you don't do this, you likely will not be able to reach the button.

I didn't cut off the extra wires, because I wasn't sure if I would need them in the future. That's why it looks like a Medusa head.

Here it is going into place:
DSC06342 (Medium).jpg

Here it is fully installed from the outside:
DSC06348 (Medium).JPG

Because the female header block is 6x2, it's pretty stable, and the button is easy to reach by just reaching to the side. And it works great! It's interesting that while you have the button held down, it switches all the text on screen to lower-case, and then when you release the button, it resets.

Anyway, hope this helps someone looking to do something similar. It's a pretty easy mod if you can solder and have the parts, with no permanent changes to the original machine.
 
Very nice!

I went to install a reset switch when I first got my 2001N. I went through my junk box and couldn't find anything that would actually stick out of the case without modification. My instinct is always to leave the holes for the memory expansion open for whatever the heck is supposed to go through those holes, so it never occurred to me to have a switch poke out that hole, like you did. Unfortunately, at that position my 4040 is in the way anyway. So maybe one day I'll just end up drilling a hole. It's not like it isn't a period-correct modification anyway.
 
Hey, thanks!

Actually, the tip of the button is just inside of the memory expansion opening, so it doesn't get bumped. Yeah, I've never seen anyone with anything coming out of that opening, and because of the way the pins are arranged, I can't imagine what would stick out of there.

When designing my button, I considered adding a small lower-profile button, and gluing a couple of tiny magnets to the side, and mounting it on the back of my lower case (since it's metal), and that way having something accessible, but also doesn't require any permanent changes. I did see someone else who had drilled a hold in the back of the case, and mounted a reset button there, and to tell you the truth, it looked so good it looked like it was factory standard, and something Commodore should have built into the later versions. If you choose to do the magnet thing, you can pick up those tiny magnets up on eBay for dirt cheap. I've got a bunch of 2mm square magnets, and I usually use them for lid closure mechanisms on my electronic projects. Just an idea.
 
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I'd love to see a scan of the original article from the "PET Personal Computer Guide". I also like how you took advantage of the unused opening. I may design a 3D printed cover that will allow me to mount the switch in the space but close it off at the same time.

Thanks for sharing!

Heather
 
Thanks! Hey, a 3D printed cover would be cool, and make that space look really finished.

Just PM me your email address, and I can scan the chapter from the book into a PDF and send it to you. I tried to find it online, but I only found the earlier Osborne book, which didn't have the chapter on PET modifications.
 
Sounds great! I'll share the 3D files for the cover on Thingiverse when I'm done so people can print them with any of the 3D printing services. The only objects that I've finished and shared at this point are drive bay covers for the Amiga 4000D. I'm also working on cases for the PetSD and the uIEC/SD with deluxe daughter board. They are both nearly completed but I got sidetracked. :)

Sending a PM now.

Heather
 
It should be rather easy to accomplish without a microcontroller, too. However, what key would make sense to use on the PET? STOP?
 
Yeah, I've never seen anyone with anything coming out of that opening, and because of the way the pins are arranged, I can't imagine what would stick out of there.
I don't know why they switched to pin-headers (though it sure makes life easier for us now) but I assume the original boards had "card-edges". I don't recall what they actually looked like. In that case, the hole makes sense. I don't know of anything that would plug in there, in either case. But, I'm no PET expert.

When designing my button, I considered adding a small lower-profile button, and gluing a couple of tiny magnets to the side, and mounting it on the back of my lower case (since it's metal), and that way having something accessible, but also doesn't require any permanent changes.
That's a very good idea, I'll have to keep that in mind!

I did see someone else who had drilled a hold in the back of the case, and mounted a reset button there, and to tell you the truth, it looked so good it looked like it was factory standard, and something Commodore should have built into the later versions.
I've seen so many of them with a round red button on the lower right, front of the bottom part of the case, that I used to think Commodore did that. I thought about doing that to mine for that reason. I actually have a similar looking button, but it's latching, which wouldn't make a very nice reset switch.
 
It should be rather easy to accomplish without a microcontroller, too. However, what key would make sense to use on the PET? STOP?

Cool. How would you do this? I guess you could hijack the keyboard matrix somehow?

Or could you do something like a "3-finger salute"? Something like "@ + SHIFT + DEL" to reboot?

I'd be very interested in this, if it wasn't too complicated.
 
That's an idea, a "3-finger salute" may be easier to accomplish than a press-and-hold of a single key. I'll have to find my schematics and do some thinking.
 
Cool. How would you do this? I guess you could hijack the keyboard matrix somehow?

Or could you do something like a "3-finger salute"? Something like "@ + SHIFT + DEL" to reboot?

I'd be very interested in this, if it wasn't too complicated.

I already implemented soft reboot in the edit rom and I actually chose "@ - both SHIFTS - DEL" to reboot the machine. Check out my CBM-EDIT-ROM project:

http://www.6502.org/users/sjgray/projects/editrom/index.html

Currently I only support 4000/8000 machines with BASIC4. I haven't looked into supporting older machines at this point although I may consider it in the future.
Still working on some of the other features, so if you have suggestions just let me know.

Steve
 
I should be able to implement RVS+SHIFT+SHIFT or RVS+Z+? (similar to CTRL-A-A) with some AND gates, an inverter, and either some latches and a counter or RC time delay. It might actually be cheaper to use a microcontroller. Of course, there are other key combinations that should be easier. The schematic doesn't give any idea as to which lines are which keys, and I've forgotten which are which. So, I'd have to open up my PET and figure it out, which unfortunately isn't easy to do right now.

No offence, but I like my stock ROMs :D. And, I'd like a hard reset: usually when my PET crashes, IRQ is disabled.

One thing to consider is that a lot of two-player games would cause multiple keys being pressed at the same time, so certain combinations would be problematic. Few things are so annoying as a computer rebooting in the middle of intense game play. :cool:
 
I should be able to implement RVS+SHIFT+SHIFT or RVS+Z+? (similar to CTRL-A-A) with some AND gates, an inverter, and either some latches and a counter or RC time delay. It might actually be cheaper to use a microcontroller. Of course, there are other key combinations that should be easier. The schematic doesn't give any idea as to which lines are which keys, and I've forgotten which are which. So, I'd have to open up my PET and figure it out, which unfortunately isn't easy to do right now.

No offence, but I like my stock ROMs :D. And, I'd like a hard reset: usually when my PET crashes, IRQ is disabled.

One thing to consider is that a lot of two-player games would cause multiple keys being pressed at the same time, so certain combinations would be problematic. Few things are so annoying as a computer rebooting in the middle of intense game play. :cool:

You are right, stock roms would be preferred and if the IRQ is not running a soft-reboot would not work. I would like to see a hardware solution. You have to account for the different keyboards (N,B and DIN). Each has a different layout.

Andre's document might be helpful: http://www.6502.org/users/andre/petindex/local/PETdoc.txt

You might also find my keyboard replacement project helpful (connect a C64 keyboard to the PET): http://www.6502.org/users/sjgray/projects/petkeyboard/index.html

Steve
 
I don't know why they switched to pin-headers (though it sure makes life easier for us now) but I assume the original boards had "card-edges". I don't recall what they actually looked like. In that case, the hole makes sense. I don't know of anything that would plug in there, in either case.

The expansion port on the later PETs were arranged for twisted pair ribbon cables. The older SCSI-1 internal cables could be used as they were 50 pin (not the later wide SCSI). Useful for custom I/O projects.

images.jpeg
 
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