Sinisterdragon
Member
Thats Kewl... Thanks, I'll look into buying some NiCad to suite then.. Besides, then i'll have a full set of Nicads to test some of the other equipment I have that I know uses them.....
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SinisterDragon said:I just assumed the Batteries in the T1000XE where NiMh. How long have NiMh been around??? If the cells are NiCad that would be HEAPS cheaper from what I have seen... How can I be sure of what ios in the system???
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Hey, Just because i'm Evil doesn't make me a bad person you know.....
http://www.pbase.com/sinisterdragon
patscc said:Hey, that's a great tip, never occured to me the top and bottom caps might just be plated. Can't wait to try it. So how does the NiCad rate in terms of 'pop-power' ? Sort of like an electrolytic cap of roughly the same physical dimension ? Or louder or softer ?
patscc
I'd love to get another though...
NathanAllan said:The HDD is *not* IDE. I took a better look at the spec sheet and it's MFM. And it is not working right. It won't spin up and dos 3.3 won't recognize it. Does anyone here have a 32mb or less hdd they can part with?
A bit late in the day, but I'm trying to get a Toshiba T1000XE working ( second time having given up a few years ago ).
Batteries - Don't know what type they were but I fitted six NiCd and it seems to work okay.
Hard Disk - Mine's a Conner CP-2024. Definitely IDE not MFM. Definitely 2.5" not 3.5". The box connector is a flat plastic ribbon cable which runs to a PCB which has the socket for the HDD pins. At the HDD end it's a standard 44-pin connector with four pins separate to the rest, as found on most 2.5" IDE's. If the disk is just 'wiped' it should be possible to reformat on any PC using a 3.5" to 2.5" IDE adapter.