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NeXT 400dpi laser printer restoration

Did you change the small 0.1uf 50V capacitor on the motor board (C601)?

No, I couldn’t source a radial one, only SMD. Thought it would be too difficult, so I decided not to touch it.
On the logic board I also didn’t touch the bipolar one, as I forgot to order it…
Anyhow, I think the electronics are now OK, I need to find a fix for the pick up roller…
 
Here is a link to a NeXT laser printer tray for sale on Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/itm/283391552745

The seller is also willing to help with printer repair if you read the whole description.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/283391552745 said:
I'll teach you how to fix them as I'm not selfish even if you don't buy one from me because I'm crazy like that lol. Somewhere Chuck over at Vintage is now laughing....
:ROFLMAO:

I see that he's got a lot of NeXT accessories, too bad overseas shipping is so expensive...

No, I couldn’t source a radial one, only SMD. Thought it would be too difficult, so I decided not to touch it.
On the logic board I also didn’t touch the bipolar one, as I forgot to order it…
Anyhow, I think the electronics are now OK, I need to find a fix for the pick up roller…
I thought of desoldering it without removing the motor assembly... the bipolar cap is also on my waiting list.
Let me know if you find out about the roller, I'll probably discover soon enough if mine is still good
 
I see that he's got a lot of NeXT accessories, too bad overseas shipping is so expensive...
The seller is Rob Blessin, I’d say THE place to go if you are looking for black hardware.
I got some stuff from him in the past and his services are indeed top notch.
Surely, if you live outside the US (like me), shipping and duty costs may get sky high.
 
The seller is Rob Blessin, I’d say THE place to go if you are looking for black hardware.
I got some stuff from him in the past and his services are indeed top notch.
Surely, if you live outside the US (like me), shipping and duty costs may get sky high.
Rob is the last NeXT and Apple-certified distributor of NeXT hardware, components, software and I believe software licensing. His name attached to anything is pretty much official that the information is credible or the parts you are buying are genuine replacements.
 
Today I tried a couple of ideas for increasing the diameter and the grip of the roller.
Eventually, by using very basic office rubber bands I could get almost perfect functionality in combination with fresh, dry paper.
I could print many pages one after the other, without any jam.
I will now try to source some more durable silicon bands, probably cheaper than a new roller.

IMG_3730.jpeg
 
No, I couldn’t source a radial one, only SMD. Thought it would be too difficult, so I decided not to touch it.
On the logic board I also didn’t touch the bipolar one, as I forgot to order it…
Anyhow, I think the electronics are now OK, I need to find a fix for the pick up roller…
What about this?


Or, you could use a film cap like this:


For what it's worth, I forgot to replace the cap on the motor board of my Laserjet 4, and it did start causing problems sometime later. The motor would fail on a cold start, but would work after a second try.
 
For what it's worth, I forgot to replace the cap on the motor board of my Laserjet 4, and it did start causing problems sometime later. The motor would fail on a cold start, but would work after a second try.
Thanks, this is valuable because I was thinking that small cap will be fine. I've got 100nF film caps if they also work for this application I'll use them.
 
Today I recapped the HV board:

C7 / C24: 0.47uF 50V
C10 3.3uF 50V
C1 / C9 47uF / 50V

Does anyone know what's up with C19, 220uF 35V? It's a green Nichicon PX(M), next to the flyback transformer looking thing and much larger than a 220uF 35V cap should be...
Should I leave it alone? If not, what's a suitable replacement?

Now I'm trying to put everything back together and I regret not taking more pictures of the disassembly. Let's see how many screws remain...
 

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Does anyone know what's up with C19, 220uF 35V? It's a green Nichicon PX(M), next to the flyback transformer looking thing and much larger than a 220uF 35V cap should be...
Should I leave it alone? If not, what's a suitable replacement?

This document (newer, but probably still using same series names) gives PX as "Long Life Assurance, High Reliability" and Low Impedance, so it's probably a low-ESR and/or higher temp-rated cap (thus bigger than usual, and your tester seems to give it a 0 ESR reading) which would make sense inside a PSU. If it shows no physical signs of leakage it's probably Ok.

Now I'm trying to put everything back together and I regret not taking more pictures of the disassembly. Let's see how many screws remain...

I know that feeling! Good luck (y)

(Also wanted to say that this is a cool thread to follow, please keep up the good work! I've been growing an alarming interest to get myselft either a NeXT laser printer, an Apple LaserWriter or an early HP Laserjet, so far I've been able to resist the urge (and none have popped up for sale nearby) but don't know how long it holds...)
 
This document (newer, but probably still using same series names) gives PX as "Long Life Assurance, High Reliability" and Low Impedance, so it's probably a low-ESR and/or higher temp-rated cap (thus bigger than usual, and your tester seems to give it a 0 ESR reading) which would make sense inside a PSU. If it shows no physical signs of leakage it's probably Ok.
I think I'll keep it until I find a suitable replacement. I know that for CRTs there's sometimes a high ripple current capacitor next to the HV transformer which differs from the usual caps. It looks fine for now but I'm going to watch it.

I know that feeling! Good luck (y)

(Also wanted to say that this is a cool thread to follow, please keep up the good work! I've been growing an alarming interest to get myselft either a NeXT laser printer, an Apple LaserWriter or an early HP Laserjet, so far I've been able to resist the urge (and none have popped up for sale nearby) but don't know how long it holds...)
Thanks! I hope I can get it running and tbh I wasn't expecting so much interest in laser printers but as with the old computers it looks like there are still efforts to keep them going.

Btw, any tips on replacing the ozone filter? Mine broke and I can't find replacements. If I can't find anything I'll just stick a vacuum cleaner filter in it.

Also if anyone knows where to put that plastic part on the right I'll say thanks as well (how embarassing)...
 

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Capacitor: I replaced mine with this one


I kept the original one, probably still good. Again, I could not measure all of them, but majority of the caps I could test were still nominal, only the small ones were busted.

Ozone filter: the machine doesn’t need one for working, mine is still there, probably exhausted. I have no clue what they are based on, by the color I would say activated carbon.

As for the bits: the metal bracket is part of the fan assembly, the plastic cover goes in the rear next to the rear door for shielding the cable connecting the heating lamp to the main power supply.
 
Second iteration of the elastic bands for the roller. These are made of silicone, they should be very durable.
Surely they are very grippy, just maybe a tad too thick in combination with the generic rubber roller they are mounted on, I need to tune the whole thing a little bit.
Anyhow, the printer now doesn’t miss a beat.
 

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I'm happy that you managed to fix it!

I plugged it in and the good news is that nothing went up in smoke immediately, the bad news is that I'm not much further than before except than on the first try I got the paper jam error. Now all I'm getting is the motor spinning for half a second and then nothing

Any ideas? When I manually turn the roller it can grab a piece of paper so I'm not really sure what's going on. Is something else jammed?

Do I need to put the case back on (I only put the cover on top)?
 
Any ideas?

First check: during boot sequence, just before the login prompt, the printer should be turned on by the main unit (you should hear the click of the relè, then the fan, then the motor should be spinning for approximately one second). If there’s some paper sheet half the way in, the printer should eject it.

In my case, before recapping nothing was moving, just the fan. After recapping, the motor came back to life. The fan is dynamically driven, so upon printing it spins faster, you can clearly hear a higher pitch.

No need to have the lower case installed, I actually operated the machine without the top cover, too (you need to cheat by keeping the cover sensor triggered with some tape, though…).

Effective pick up rollers are key, though. For the initial feeding step, the roller will just make one turn or so. If the paper reaches the registration rollers, then the feeder will keep on turning, else it will stop and the machine will throw the paper jam error. I would definitely try to force some more grip into the roller (e.g. with rubber bands) for making sure the issue is not there.

Over the week end I plan to wrap up the whole thing, I will try to make and share some movies for reference.
 
Another important factor to check: the fuser lamp.
When the unit powers up, you should see some orange glow through the gap between the chassis and the rear cover.

If the fuser surface is not reaching the right temperature, the printer status won’t be set to “ready” and it will never accept any job.

That’s the Achille’s heel of this printer, as it seems as though an exact match for this lamp is no longer available.

However, if the printer reacts (even just partially) to the print command, it should mean that the initial status is “ready”, hence the lamp should be in working order…
 
Another important factor to check: the fuser lamp.
When the unit powers up, you should see some orange glow through the gap between the chassis and the rear cover.

If the fuser surface is not reaching the right temperature, the printer status won’t be set to “ready” and it will never accept any job.

That’s the Achille’s heel of this printer, as it seems as though an exact match for this lamp is no longer available.

However, if the printer reacts (even just partially) to the print command, it should mean that the initial status is “ready”, hence the lamp should be in working order…
Oh, that could be a problem in mine. After the first few tries the motor would spin but later there was no reaction at all.
There's no heat coming from the back or the fan exhaust.

I'll try to check it anything glows and do some of the steps in the service manual regarding the fuser.
 
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