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ZX Spectrum 48K Repair. I could really use some help from the other side of the pond repairing this...

Just curious. What is the ideal eprom to make a diagnostic ROM? I may have a few I can use. What about the jumpers on the board which designate which kind of ROM was installed at the factory? Do those need to be changed or not. Does the Eprom just fit in and work or does it require modification?

Thanks
Mick
 
As far as the noise issue. This photo shows pin 28 of the ULA at the sinclair startup screen. Its 0.42V with alot of rippling.
IMG_20220201_153527.jpg

Sorry its hard to get on camera with that screen. When I press the board and the pitch goes up it doesnt register a difference on screen.



I have also been using jumper wires to play with the keyboard matrix. Trying to do what you said cj7hawk I was able to type "border 1" and hit enter. I tried border 2 to 5 as well I keep getting the same screen:
IMG_20220201_160128.jpg
I am typing (Shorting is more accurate here :) it all in lowercase as I havent figured out shift. Anyway no colors. I ordered a keyboard membrane so I guess I can just wait. Its gong to be at least a month though before it arrives.
 
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Sinclair basic is, err, interesting. Its all tokenised so one keypress gives you the whole command. So you need to 'press' B then a number then enter

So thats shorting A15 to KB9 then A11 to KB11 then A14 to KB13 (I think)
 
Thanks Gary, I knew it was tokenised but I just assumed to type it the way I see it... Ill give that a shot next time I fire it up.
 
Might be best to wait for the membrane, I remember blowing up my ZX81 shorting the keyboard inputs when I hacked a joystick into it.
 
The good thing is that Verault knows every millimeter of his spectrum now, so if he breaks it, he can fix it again :) The Retroleum Rom would be a good choice, given you need some color. It's very colorful when it starts up. I linked to the official site in my earlier post, and they make it available as a download for free.

the jumpers won't matter. You have ROMCS going to Pin 20, OE is on RD, and MREQ is on 27, although MREQ should also be tied into ROMCS, so on an eprom, that pin is just PGM. Since you don't have the voltages to reprogram it, It should be fine as-is. Anyway, it's not too difficult to burn a new rom and install it and it will either work or not.

Retroleum boots into a very colorful full-screen rainbow.

Regards
David
 
any advice on the squeal issue on post #62 i attached photos of pin 28 ULA

There's nothing on the line, so should be no sound from the speaker... Can you unsolder one leg of the speaker, and just confirm the sound is definitely coming from the speaker? And not some other stressed component?

The speaker output is pretty basic. Goes through two diodes and then straight into the speaker, and the other side is connected to ground, so it's not like there's an audio amp that can pick up sound. If there's no signal on Pin 28, then there should be no sound coming from the speaker. Not unless it's shorted to another line somewhere... What does the oscilloscope show at the speaker? You can also plug in an audio source into the EAR or MIC port on the back and play some music into it, which will be heard on the speaker. This will at least give you an idea of what kind of signal is necessary for a specific noise.

If you can see an audio signal on the speaker with PIN 28 not making any changes, then you can at least track it back through the components in the circuit as that circuit is simple and should be easy to trace; https://spectrumforeveryone.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/ZXSpectrumIssue2-Schematics.gif

But keep in mind that even if the board is making a sound, it's not necessarily coming from the speaker.

Regards
David
 
I agree with David.

There are no active components in the circuit between the ULA and the loudspeaker, so it should be straightforward (with your oscilloscope) to work backwards from the speaker to the ULA pin to see either where the noise disappears, or is it present on the pin of the ULA?

Also, don’t forget that the same ULA pin is used for the speaker, tape microphone and tape earphone. You haven’t got anything plugged into the tape connectors at the same time (possibly introducing an earth loop).

Good work on getting the beast working. When you said you had removed and tested the DRAM, I assumed you meant it all and not just a sub-set.

Dave
 
I agree with David.

There are no active components in the circuit between the ULA and the loudspeaker, so it should be straightforward (with your oscilloscope) to work backwards from the speaker to the ULA pin to see either where the noise disappears, or is it present on the pin of the ULA?

Also, don’t forget that the same ULA pin is used for the speaker, tape microphone and tape earphone. You haven’t got anything plugged into the tape connectors at the same time (possibly introducing an earth loop).

Good work on getting the beast working. When you said you had removed and tested the DRAM, I assumed you meant it all and not just a sub-set.

Dave
Thanks Dave. I am so happy to have some life out of it. It was more in depth than I anticipated.
In regards to the RAM, it was only the 4116 in question at the time so that was all I tested. I was under the impression that was in a way the PRIMARY RAM bank to get the machine to boot. I figured the higher bank could be checked once the machine had any signs of life.

I am going to remove the speaker and investigate more on the sounds.
 
You don't need to remove the speaker in my opinion.

Saves a bit of time.

Dave
#Daver2 Well you are right I am sure.. But I'm loosing my hearing so I need to be sure and try and concentrate on the sound.

After poking and prodding Im pretty sure the problem is the coil, it seems to be emitting the high pitch hum. Anyone happen to know of a drop in replacement for this ( I know when it comes to coils and transformers the answer is usually a big fat no).

I am guessing that the enamel is breaking down for one reason or another. Maybe improper voltage or reversed polarity for too long when the previous owner had it.


Edit: By the way my Wife was so happy to see the Sinclair startup screen after almost 25-30 years!
 
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A stethescope, or even just a length of 5mm dia tube with one end stuck in your ear with the other end moved around the board is a great way to isolate sounds, though doesn't always work.

Often it's not the enamel, but just loose wires. Keep in mind that the wires are subject to magnetic force caused by the current flow and will actually try to move, which of course is bad for the enamel.

You can probably buy a new coil - I've seen them for sale from time to time, and IIRC it's actually a transformer more than a coil, but you can also get small modules that convert 9v to 12v, -12v and -5v as well as 5v, so one option if you don't want to keep the board the same is to update all the power supplies on the board. This will increase the reliability and reduce the heat from the heatsink substantially - I often don't even use a heatsink. But it's not anywhere close to original. On the other hand, it will be a lot more tolerant of cap failure in 30 years time :)

Or, if the sound isn't enough to bother you, especially when it's in the case, then just ignore it. I remember the high-pitched whine of the coil, and I'm surprised you can hear it. The good news is that your ears will most likely deteriorate faster than the coil, so it will get quieter with age. Don't mention that to your wife though. That's just plain suicidal.

Personally, I'd just treat the whine as part of the computer's character unless it's really annoying. Even then, I'd probably soak it in a nice thin epoxy upside down and re-encase it in resin, which would protect the wires from further movement and potential shorts, unless it's already badly shorted. It should also silence it, especially if it comes out with a decently thick coat of epoxy when it cures, which will hold all the external wires - the most likely to be loose - down firmly. If it ain't completely broke, it can be fixed :)

I'm waiting for the end result with the new membrane and am guessing the color will probably be fine :)

David.
 
Ah, I had assumed the 'noise' was coming through the audio signal from the speaker.

So, it is being emitted from the DC:DC converter transformer?

In that case it could be as David says - or the oscillator could not be oscillating at the correct frequency.

Dave
 
Yeah it is definitely coming from the coil. I only refer to it as such as documentation and the silk screen on the board do.
When it comes to hearing, I cant always make out what people are saying, but I can hear really high pitch sounds. I can hear a CRT being on if I walk into a room. The end result of listening to music too loud and being in the military... Things happen.
This sound does and will continue tp bother me. Is there a part number I can use to find a replacement? I am not looking to rebuild the power supply circuit. Just replace it as it cant possibly be stock sounding like this. Even with the case closed it bothers me.
 
It's not a standard part. You can unwind it and rewind it, or you'll need to buy one from a retro seller... But if you're that determined to block the noise, I really would suggest desoldering it first and then dipping it in epoxy resin and building up a layer around it, or even just make a small cube and turn it into a block and then resolder it.

After all, if the wires can't move, it can't make any sound right?

David
 
Replacement item: https://www.sellmyretro.com/offer/d...-coil-for-sinclair-zx-spectrum-16k~~48k-25867

or


or DIY -

Regards
David
 
I have watched many videos of people re-winding transformers and coils and it amazes me. The issue came up when a Yoke for a 9" CRT monitor I had been repairing turned out to be broken in many places (unrepairable). Seems to precise for me. You should see the spool on my fishing rods if you need proof.

So if you read that listing its UNVARNISHED.. how would that work.. He also says he has another listing for Varnished "for those who like less hum"

His "VARNISHED" Listing: https://www.ebay.com/itm/124549383446?hash=item1cffb8c516:g:gcwAAOSw1QlgjUtB

Im confused about the pin layout.. it shows 5 pins at the base but my coil has 6 pins. Its this for another later model?
 
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