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Fluorescent Phaseout

Today I went to Lowes and purchased 5 each GE 4' LED single shop lamps to replace what's been hanging in the garage since 1989. 4 went to the overhead and 1 over my work bench. A dazzling amount of light and I was really suprised. The total cost was $151 and some change which included my 10% military retiree discount. 1 more to go and that's in the laundry room.
 
Today I went to Lowes and purchased 5 each GE 4' LED single shop lamps to replace what's been hanging in the garage since 1989. 4 went to the overhead and 1 over my work bench. A dazzling amount of light and I was really suprised. The total cost was $151 and some change which included my 10% military retiree discount. 1 more to go and that's in the laundry room.

I will have to see if they have 8ft drop in replacements for my fathers garage, I see the fixture up there but even as a kid I don’t remember any tubes being installed.
 
Hahaha. Proof that the worst thing you can ever do the the reliability of a system is brag about how reliable it is bit me. I was saying in this thread how the six-plus-year-old LED inserts I installed in the kitchen were all going strong; one of them (out of seven) decided to flake out this week. Presumably something in the power supply has succumbed to a dry solder joint or bad capacitor, because it started flickering off at random. (When it's on it's a full normal brightness/appearance.) Maybe I'll try prying it open and seeing what makes it tick, although it's not super obvious how to get into it.

It wasn't a big deal because I still had an extra lying around. (They don't come in packs of seven, of course.) Took about a minute and half to replace it once I remembered how to unlock the spring dinguses that hold them into the can. The "new" one is just a *slightly* different color and *slightly* brighter than its companions with six years worth of mileage on them, the difference is actually less than I thought it would be. I guess the question now is whether the one that went bad was a fluke or if the other six will all start dropping like flies. Still, though, they're doing a heck of a lot better than the CFLs they replaced.
 
Well, I started repairing my 4' LED tubes gone bad (I have three of them). Located the string of 4 open LEDs, initially tried replacing them, but the darned things are soldered to an aluminum-backed heatsink, so not so easy. Just clipped one bad one out, and solder-bridged the pins. The buck regulator uses two parallel 1R5 resistors for current sense; just clipped one of them out to force a lower drive current. Result works fine.
 
I have a large florescent fixture in my laundry room which has been in place since about 1990 or so. It still works but now gives out a pinkish yellow cast and a flicker every once in a while. The fixture is screwed into the ceiling and I would just like to replace the florescent tube with a LED. My question is has anyone used a LED unit with an existing florescent ballast? Or is there such a beast?
 
They do exist, but not for electronic ballasts, just the old iron type. Search for "fluorescent retrofit" I prefer to remove the ballasts and just feed line voltage to either end.
 
They do exist, but not for electronic ballasts, just the old iron type. Search for "fluorescent retrofit" I prefer to remove the ballasts and just feed line voltage to either end.
That's the problem - don't know if I can remove the ballast without taking the fixture down.
 
Type A (direct fit) or Type A+B (hybrid) retrofit tubes will work with most electronic ballasts. It's the magnetic ones that are an issue. Majority of my fixtures still have the ballast in place because I haven't had time to remove them yet.
 
I thought it was the other way around, particularly for the "instant start" ballasts that don't use the fluorescent heaters (e.g. the pins on each end are electrically tied together). They operate by putting a pretty high voltage on the lamp to get an arc struck.
 
Here is a giant list of the ballasts certified by Philips for their Type A tubes. Most are electronic but I see there are a few magnetic as well.
 
I'd have a check a few of my old GE and Westinghouse ballasts to see if they're even on the list. All instant-start--one wire to each end of the tube.
 
I have a large florescent fixture in my laundry room which has been in place since about 1990 or so. It still works but now gives out a pinkish yellow cast and a flicker every once in a while. The fixture is screwed into the ceiling and I would just like to replace the florescent tube with a LED. My question is has anyone used a LED unit with an existing florescent ballast? Or is there such a beast?
I use them all over the house with the original ballasts, the cheap universal ones from Home Depot ($6.99 a pair) actually are the most quiet and best light, the more expensive FEIT universal replacements are quite noise and seem to have a slight flicker and harshness the others lack.
 
A friend of mine had a business and the sign outside his shop was home built and backlit with 4' florescent tubes. The color difference was not as noticable to the naked eye, but was really visible in the photos. The cheaper fixtures had a pink-ish hue, while the better bulbs appeared green-ish.
 
Compact fluorescent lamps? They're the worst of the technology.
I totally agree except for one thing - when they come on they come on dim and slowly get brighter as they warm up. My old eyes really like this, esp. at night.

I wish I could program LED Lamps to do this.
 
So, the consensus is I probably could stick a Philips LED in the fixture and it would work? Don't care how long it takes to get up to speed.
 
A friend of mine had a business and the sign outside his shop was home built and backlit with 4' florescent tubes. The color difference was not as noticable to the naked eye, but was really visible in the photos. The cheaper fixtures had a pink-ish hue, while the better bulbs appeared green-ish.
It's not a matter of "cheaper" versus "better". You just described the difference between "Warm White" (2700K) and "Cool White" (4100K) bulbs. Some places would deliberately alternate between the two to achieve a more neutral white color, but often they simply didn't know or care about the difference and just installed whatever kind of bulbs they had on hand.

There's also "Premium White" (3000 or 3500K) which is my favorite, but is harder to find.
 
I've noticed a lot of the newer LED recessed lighting inserts have a switch on them for adjusting the color temperature. They usually offer five or so options covering a range between 2700K "Warm White" and 5000K "Daylight". Have to admit I'm kind of curious how they implement this; I did some token digging to see if the total lumens is affected by the color selection, but I wasn't able to find a sheet that said that.
 
My newest ceiling light just switches between two separate led strings to change the colour.
Daylight is my eyes preferred choice in work spaces.
 
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