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Commodore pet 2001-8 no video from logic board

RetroGadgetMan

Experienced Member
Joined
Oct 24, 2022
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England
Hi all, my first post.
I have a commodore pet 2001-8 with no video output from J7 on the logic board.

Using a logic probe set to pulse. Out of all the ics in locations C D and E on the logic board, the following pulsed.
E1 pin6
E3 pin12
D8 pin 8,9 and 10
C9 pin1
No pulsing from any other ics in these locations.
No pulsing from J7 the CRT conecting point.
I am assuming pin 1 is the top left of the ic with location lug at the top.
Sorry I am new to all this but a keen learner.
I can confirm the CRT and crt video board are working as I have tested these on another pets output.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks Frank
 
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Welcome. You have come to the right place!

First thing we need to identify is the schematic related to your specific machine. Have a look over here: http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/computers/pet/.

If you can't find your machine - can you post a photograph of the main logic board please.

Second, I see you have a logic probe. I assume you have a multimeter? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

The usual first step is to measure the voltages on the DC voltage rails to ensure they are within specification. If not, the machine will not work correctly.

Can I suggest that you add your location to your profile. You will also be under moderation for the first 10 posts - so we will need to take things slowly until you reach that post count (as there will be a delay between you posting and us seeing it.

>>> I am assuming pin 1 is the top left of the ic with location lug at the top.

Yes.

Dave
 
Welcome. You have come to the right place!

First thing we need to identify is the schematic related to your specific machine. Have a look over here: http://www.zimmers.net/anonftp/pub/cbm/schematics/computers/pet/.

If you can't find your machine - can you post a photograph of the main logic board please.

Second, I see you have a logic probe. I assume you have a multimeter? Do you have access to an oscilloscope?

The usual first step is to measure the voltages on the DC voltage rails to ensure they are within specification. If not, the machine will not work correctly.

Can I suggest that you add your location to your profile. You will also be under moderation for the first 10 posts - so we will need to take things slowly until you reach that post count (as there will be a delay between you posting and us seeing it.

>>> I am assuming pin 1 is the top left of the ic with location lug at the top.

Yes.

Dave
Hi thanks for your reply.
It is the 320008 logic board. The blue badged pet.
I should have mentioned that I have already tested the 5v output rails and they are all working.
I do have an old analogue osciloscope and I have multi meters.
I have not used the oscilascope until this week. Just been learning how-to set it up.
Just added my location.

Frank
 
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Another Brit. Double Welcome!

Just to confirm, you have tested the output from all four (4) voltage regulators (both for DC level and AC noise)?

Dave
 
If you have done that, then check the following pins of the 6502 CPU at location F3:

Pin 2 (RDY) HIGH.
Pin 4 (/IRQ) Either HIGH or PULSING. Not permanently LOW.
Pin 6 (/NMI) HIGH.

Pins 3, 37 and 39 should have a 1 MHz clock on them. Whether your logic probe can detect this or not is dependent upon the probe.

Pin 7 (SYNC) Should be pulsing. This indicates that the CPU is executing instructions...

Pin 40 (/RESET) Should be LOW when you turn the power ON and stay LOW for approximately 1 second. It should then go HIGH. You want to connect your logic probe up to this pin BEFORE you turn the power on.

Let's see what that tells us.

Dave
 
Another Brit. Double Welcome!

Just to confirm, you have tested the output from all four (4) voltage regulators (both for DC level and AC noise)?

Dave
Thank you lol.
Two lots of 7.5 Volts ac and one 15ac for CRT.
And x4 5v DC output from the regulators.
Not sure about AC noise.
 
If you have done that, then check the following pins of the 6502 CPU at location F3:

Pin 2 (RDY) HIGH.
Pin 4 (/IRQ) Either HIGH or PULSING. Not permanently LOW.
Pin 6 (/NMI) HIGH.

Pins 3, 37 and 39 should have a 1 MHz clock on them. Whether your logic probe can detect this or not is dependent upon the probe.

Pin 7 (SYNC) Should be pulsing. This indicates that the CPU is executing instructions...

Pin 40 (/RESET) Should be LOW when you turn the power ON and stay LOW for approximately 1 second. It should then go HIGH. You want to connect your logic probe up to this pin BEFORE you turn the power on.

Let's see what that tells us.

Dave
Thanks I will get back to you once I have checked this out later. Just eating dinner.

Frank
 
>>> Just eating dinner.

Enjoy!

>>> Not sure about AC noise.

You can set your multimeter to a low voltage AC range and measure across GND/0V and each +5V DC rail.

Start off with (say) a 1V AC range and reduce it as appropriate to take a reading. This assumes you have a reasonable multimeter and not a cheap one that will only read mains voltages! This is not as good as using an oscilloscope, but let's leave that for later!

Dave
 
Well done RGM... you made it!


C9 pin1 pulsing is good. Suggests you have a clock!

I would be tempted to follow the H sync signal backwards... so start at pin 5 of J7...

At C5 do you see a clock at pin 12? Are the C5 outputs at pin 2 and pin 3 changing? Is one the inverse of the other? Also... can you list what you see at every pin on C9?

PS

Pulsing on D8 pin 10 is a very good sign. Suggests at least half of C9 and C8 are working.
 
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If you have done that, then check the following pins of the 6502 CPU at location F3:

Pin 2 (RDY) HIGH.
Pin 4 (/IRQ) Either HIGH or PULSING. Not permanently LOW.
Pin 6 (/NMI) HIGH.

Pins 3, 37 and 39 should have a 1 MHz clock on them. Whether your logic probe can detect this or not is dependent upon the probe.

Pin 7 (SYNC) Should be pulsing. This indicates that the CPU is executing instructions...

Pin 40 (/RESET) Should be LOW when you turn the power ON and stay LOW for approximately 1 second. It should then go HIGH. You want to connect your logic probe up to this pin BEFORE you turn the power on.

Let's see what that tells us.

Dave
Ok so cpu.
Pin 2 is hi
Pin 4 is hi
Pin 6 is hi
Pin 7 is hi no pulse
Pin 40 low then high after 1 second from power up.
My probe does not have MHz mode so I could not check for the 1mhz you mentioned. Maybe the oscilloscope?
I would need to know what to set it too.
 
Well done RGM... you made it!


C9 pin1 pulsing is good. Suggests you have a clock!

I would be tempted to follow the H sync signal backwards... so start at pin 5 of J7...

At C5 do you see a clock at pin 12? Are the C5 outputs at pin 2 and pin 3 changing? Is one the inverse of the other? Also... can you list what you see at every pin on C9?

PS

Pulsing on D8 pin 10 is a very good sign. Suggests at least half of C9 and C8 are working.
Ok so c5.
Pin 12 hi no pulse
Pin 2 low no pulse
Pin 3 hi no pulse
When you say are 2 and 3 changing, do you mean between hi and low. If so then no they are not.

And C9
Pin 1 hi pulse. Pin 14 nil
Pin 2 lo. Pin 13 nil
Pin 3 lo. Pin 12 hi
Pin 4 nil. Pin 11 nill
Pin 5 hi. Pin 10 lo
Pin 6 nil. Pin 9 nil
Pin 7 nil. Pin 8 nil

Thanks Frank
 
>>> Just eating dinner.

Enjoy!

>>> Not sure about AC noise.

You can set your multimeter to a low voltage AC range and measure across GND/0V and each +5V DC rail.

Start off with (say) a 1V AC range and reduce it as appropriate to take a reading. This assumes you have a reasonable multimeter and not a cheap one that will only read mains voltages! This is not as good as using an oscilloscope, but let's leave that for later!

Dave
Not checked for noise yet.
 
C9 pin1 pulsing is good.
Hi Navag,
Very good things to check.
However, as the old 2001-8 PET does not have an accurate top assembly drawing to help locate parts, do you think it is a good idea to state the IC part number such as C9 (74LS93) to help our OP make sure he is on the right part until he gets the hang of it?
-dave_m
 
Hi Navag,
Very good things to check.
However, as the old 2001-8 PET does not have an accurate top assembly drawing to help locate parts, do you think it is a good idea to state the IC part number such as C9 (74LS93) to help our OP make sure he is on the right part until he gets the hang of it?
-dave_m
There are numbers and letters along the side... on my board at least...

IMG_20220709_183216784.jpg
 
Wow, thanks for the hi-res photo of the 2001-8 board. It is the best I've seen. And yes, but the problem is that there is a Commodore top assembly drawing floating around that indicates, for instance, that the CPU is in location F1 as it is the first IC in the F column. However, the schematic calls it out as F3 for its closest grid location and it can be confusing. Commodore fixed the issue in its later main board drawings for the 2001N, etc.

By the way, what is that interesting gadget in the CPU socket?
 
By the way, what is that interesting gadget in the CPU socket?
That was Rev 0 of my Poor Man's Fluke for 6502. aka the Electron Wrangler, a personal project. Basically allows you to do what a Fluke 9010A can do, read, write, memory test etc.

Here is being used to verify address decoding. The Electron Wrangler is emulating a NOPper and calculating the digital signature at the test point connected via the fly lead.

e.g. H3 pin 3 has signature P7AA which is nSELE on a good board
 
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Hi thanks for your reply.
It is the 320008 logic board. The blue badged pet.
I should have mentioned that I have already tested the 5v output rails and they are all working.
I do have an old analogue osciloscope and I have multi meters.
I have not used the oscilascope until this week. Just been learning how-to set it up.
Just added my location.

Frank

It is great that you have the scope.

I can give a few tips on repairing circuits with TTL "glue Logic".

One thing is that generally the output pulse high and low voltage levels should fall in a range that suggests the output stage of the device, is normal.

Usually logic lows are below 0.4V, certainly below 0.8V and logic highs in the range of 2.7 to 3.5V (unless there are pull up resistors seen for example on open collector outputs and it approaches 5V). Also IC's with open collector outputs can look dead if something happens to the pullup. A logic level in the range of 0.8V to 2V is sort of ambiguous for TTL and would be suspicious. Most TTL gates have a voltage threshold where they appear to switch at around 1.2 to 1.4V.

If you see an ambiguous level of say around 1 to 1.5v on a TTL IC's output, generally there is something wrong. The options are that the IC's output stage has failed, or there is loading on the output pin, or that two outputs, say tri-stated onto a bus line are "fighting" each other, one pulling high & the other low.

In general though, it is relatively uncommon for a TTL's IC's input stage to fail in a way where it loads the pin of another IC's output feeding it. It can happen rarely, but this is much rarer than the output stage in a TTL IC failing. So in this situation suspect a failed output stage first, rather than a loading effect from any inputs connected to that. One way to be sure is to just solder suck the output pin and free it up in the pcb hole, to disconnect it this way for a test, rather than cutting a pcb track.

One failure mode that appears to be more and more common in aging TTL IC's, is that an input pin goes open circuit inside the chip. It then assumes a high logic level (that open circuit TTL IC inputs do) in the die inside the IC. If it is a simple inverter or buffer IC, it is easy to find as the output is stuck & non responsive. So an output pulse or active logic state is "missing"

However, the interesting scenario crops up where the input pin is say one of the inputs to a gate, like a AND or NAND for example goes open internally. What happens is, all looks normal with a single channel scope probe test around the gate, as there are pulses seen on all its pins, inputs and outputs. But, the logic is defective and the overall circuitry malfunctions. To find this requires checking the timing of the pulses with at least a two channel scope and seeing if the particular gate is obeying its logic table functions.

One other thing, especially if an IC is not in a socket, that before concluding it is defective, it is really better to fully check its logic functions by examining all pins with the scope and making sure it is not being inhibited by incorrect logic signals feeding it, and that includes not just the presence or absence of those signals, but the timing of those signals. Imagine for example a D flip flop the importance of the time of the clock pulse edge with respect to the data input.

What I'm getting at here, it that sometimes faults can be found based on the absence of pulses, or defective logic levels on IC output pins. Also sometimes they can be found if there are thermal effects reversed by freeze spray. However, sometimes all the pulses can be present and accounted for, but there is a defect in the logic (eg internally open gate inputs) or a signal timing issue , which is where the scope comes in handy and a logic probe fails to be of any help.

Cmos are interesting, especially in the old 4000 series, in that they have a penchant for their output stages to go open circuit, leaving the inputs they are connected to floating which charge to a high or some ambiguous level. In these cases even attaching a x10 scope probe will discharge the gate inputs, making it look like a logic low, but it was high before the scope probe was connected.
 
That was Rev 0 of my Poor Man's Fluke for 6502. aka the Electron Wrangler, a personal project.
I am very interested. A gadget that can perform ROM sum checks, RAM tests, I/O tests, bus fault tests, etc on a PET that doesn't boot would be very useful.

And while running endless NOPs, one can collect signatures of various nodes? That sounds useful for comparing good PET signatures with a future broken PET.

To me the software would seem to be a bigger job than even the hardware.
Please keep us appraised of the progress.
 
Yes, it is a brilliant development.

If you have a signature of various logic points from a working PET, then you can probe a non-working PET on the same points looking for different signatures.

I used to use In-Circuit emulators to perform similar tests (when they were available for 'old' micros of course).

Dave
 
I see there is the magical new user timewarp thing happening to posts.... Anyway...

C5 having pin 2 and 3 the inverse of each other is a good sign in respect of C5 but it needs a pulse on pin 12 to do it's thing.

C5 pin 12 comes from pin 9 of B5.

But B5 is driven by a clock from pin 12 of C9.

So C9 pin 12 should really be pulsing but you say it is HI

Get a copy of the 74LS93 datasheet and see if you agree with me... But I think if it has power pin 5 hi and ground pin 10 low and it is not in reset pins 2 and 3 not high and has a pulse on pin 1 then it should output pulses on at least pin 12.

I would remove, socket and replace C9

When de-soldering be careful to not overheat the board at >350C the board might want to bubble and delaminate which would ruin your day. The safest approach is probably to cut the legs and do one pin at a time. Depending on your skill level it might be fun to try and get the device out to test it standalone but it might not be worth it!
 
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